Pork Fat versus Olive Oil in Italy – A Brief History

Pork Fat versus Olive Oil in Italy – A Brief History

We Smith’s have used olive oil for years. It was on the weekly Costco list for the longest time. We felt confident that the Italian OO that they sold was from where they said it was…Italy. We also felt better about buying NON organic OO from Italy than organic OO from California. It just felt right and there has been some research (don’t quote me) that the stuff from the Republic of Cali may be not what we think it is…but now matter because we were good with the boot.

Once we (re)discovered pork fat in cooking, well, we may never fully go back to OO. Not only is it a good use of the animals we are raising but the taste is out of this world better. It is simply no wonder our grandmothers used it in their pie crusts! It is THAT good. So when we were given bags of pork fat, we had to learn how to render the fat into lard. We now keep a “grease” can near the salt and pepper right by the stove because we cook with it a lot.

I looked into it and wondered why both lard and OO were used in Italy but not necessarily in the same parts of the country, certainly before WWII.  Here is what I found…a brief history.

Pork Fat vs Olive Oil in Italy

In ancient Italy, the use of pork fat and olive oil in cooking reflected regional differences and the availability of resources. Both fats played crucial roles in the culinary practices of the time, each with its own historical and cultural significance.

Pork fat, particularly lard, was widely used in the northern and central regions of Italy. These areas, characterized by their cooler climates and forested landscapes, were more suitable for raising pigs. Pork fat was a staple in the diet, used for cooking, preserving meats, and adding richness to dishes. The Etruscans, an ancient civilization in what is now Tuscany, were known for their use of pork fat in various culinary applications. It was used in making sausages, frying, and even in baking. The production and consumption of pork fat were integral to the diet and economy of the regions where pigs were plentiful.

Olive oil, on the other hand, was a central part of the diet in the southern regions of Italy, particularly in areas such as Magna Graecia (modern-day southern Italy and Sicily), which were influenced by Greek colonization. The Mediterranean climate of these regions was ideal for cultivating olive trees, and the production of olive oil became a significant agricultural activity.

Olive oil was not only a dietary staple but also held cultural and religious importance. It was used in cooking, as a dressing for vegetables and breads, and as a base for various sauces. Additionally, olive oil was employed in religious rituals, medicinal preparations, and as a source of lighting in lamps.

The ancient Romans, who eventually unified the Italian peninsula, adopted and spread the use of olive oil throughout their empire. Olive oil production and trade became a significant aspect of the Roman economy. 

Bottom line the history of Italy was pork fat in the north and olive oil in the south. The rest is history as they say.

In our home and on our farm, we now use lard (and tallow) more than we use OO. Cooking meat with animal fat changes everything. Using lard in sausage making from our recently butchered pig is the difference between a dried out, tasteless meat thing, and an unctuous, fat-satisfying bite.  We use the OO, although in much smaller amounts and is usually reserved for salad dressings and not much else. We love bringing fat back.


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